8-Cord Kumihimo Spiral Bracelet Instructions - Part 2.

Using the same sequence of moves, bottom Left UP, top Right DOWN, 1/4 counter-clockwise turn, continue braiding. Only now you will begin to braid in beads. Slide one bead down to the center as you move a cord up, and do the same when you move a cord down. Each cord you move will be under the adjacent cord. Position the bead so that it slides under the adjacent cord to lock it in place. The first four placements seem awkward, but once a few beads are in place, each bead that you braid will move into position like a puzzle.

Maintain tension in order to form an even braid. I am always tightening the cords as I braid, and I keep my braid in the center of the wheel. If the bead does not want to slip into place, try putting a little tension by pulling down on the braid from below. The goal is to have no thread showing between the beads in the finished braid.

Some people like to hang a weight from the finished end of the braid. In general I do not like to use a weight because it can result in your thread showing if too much weight is applied. I apply a bit of tension on the button in the beginning, but as the braid lengthens, the weight of the braid itself is usually sufficient.

Continue braiding until your bracelet is the length you require. You need not braid all of the beads that you have strung on. Also, you can remove the bobbins and string on additional beads if you did not string on enough initially.

After you braid in your last bead, continue braiding with just cord to form the loop for the button. Remember that cord braided without beads will stretch. So when you are 3/4 of the way to having a length of braid that, when formed into a loop will fit around the button, stretch it!

When your last braiding segment is long enough it is time to remove the braid from the wheel. First, take the two opposite cords that you would have exchanged next, remove the bobbins, and then remove them from the slots. Tie them in a square knot to secure the work from un-braiding. Now remove the remaining six bobbins and remove the cords from their slots.

The last step is to finish the loop and your bracelet will be ready to wear. To finish the loop you will need a stiff darning needle with an eye large enough for one strand of cord. A pair of chain nose pliers is useful to pull the needle. The center of the braid is hollow but the space gets tighter as each cord is drawn through. I also like to secure the base of the loop with a thin application of Hypo Cement.

Thread one cord onto the darning needle. Fold the loop over and pierce the needle through the base of the braid right above where the beads begin and pull the cord through tightly. Make a half-hitch knot to secure it and insert the needle down into the beaded part of the braid from the top, through the hollow center about and inch or so and then out through the side of the braid. (It is necessary to take care that the needle exits between beads. If the point of the needle goes through a bead hole, chances are that bead will be broken as the eye is forced through.) Draw the needle and cord out the side of the braid and tighten it but do not trim the cord.

Now thread a second cord onto the darning needle. Insert the needle down into the beaded part of the braid and through the hollow center about an inch and then out through the side like the first cord. Repeat with cords three through seven. Cord eight will be wrapped a few times around the base of the loop and inserted through the center of the braid as before. Your last few cords may fit tightly and require pliers to pull them through.

I find it difficult to maintain a neat wrap while inserting the last cord so I insert the cord first, then wrap the loop remaining above the braid around the base of the loop, and then draw the cord through the rest of the way to tighten the wrap. Using the thin applicator tip, coat the wrapped portion of the loop with Hypo Cement and allow it to dry.

The final step is to trim the cords one at a time by putting a little tension on the cord as you carefully cut it close to the braid. The tension causes the ends to slip back into the braid where they remain hidden. Your bracelet is complete!



Tip #1: Although you can stop and add beads, you cannot add more cord. For this reason I cut my cord generously. This allows me to snip off and discard frayed bits from the end of the cord. You will need about a foot of cord per strand at the end of the braiding process in order to comfortably finish the loop. And it is good practice to avoid braiding in the end of the cord that has been weakened by the needle in the bead-stringing process.

Tip #2: Inspect your work frequently so you catch mistakes early. A hole in the braid will result if you forget to move a bead. Loss of tension will cause a bead to slip into the center of the braid and again a hole will result. You can correct these errors by braiding in reverse.

[Return to Part 1.]

Tube Bracelet Instructions - Revised!

Instructions for the tube bracelets have been revised so I am re-posting here. Visit Anita's beads to see all this summer's new kit designs. All components are available separately in silver, gold, copper, gunmetal and antique brass.

Your kit contains:
1 24-inch piece of .015 beading wire
2 crimp beads
2 metal wire guards (look like horse shoes) 
1 magnet clasp
4 3x2mm rondelle metal beads
4 3mm round metal beads
4 2x38mm metal tubes
6 metal flat heishi spacer beads
10 colored bracelet beads
1 focal bead

You will need the following tools:
Chain nose pliers
Cutters

Step 1) Attach clasp to wire guard with crimp:
Thread the beading wire through one tube of the wire guard from the bottom, and then down the second tube from the top. (Note: if you are unfamiliar with wire guards, they are horse-shoe shaped with a hollow tube portion at both ends connected by an open u-shaped channel between them.)

Move the wire guard to the center of the beading wire. Now slip one ring of your magnet clasp over one end of the beading wire and bring it up into wire guard so it rests around the u-shaped channel. Once the magnet clasp is attached, bring both ends of the beading wire through the crimp. Pinch the two tube portions of the wire guard together so they are touching, and slide the crimp up to meet them.

With your chain nose pliers, flatten the crimp so it makes secure contact to hold the wires. For the best appearance, there should be no space between the wire guard and the flattened crimp. Make sure you do not compress the tiny tubes of the wire guard as you flatten the crimp.

Step 2) String on beads:
Holding the two wires together, string one colored bracelet bead, then one metal rondelle, and then one 3mm round metal bead and slide them up to the crimp. Now split the wires and string one metal tube onto each one and slide them up to the 3mm round metal bead.

Hold the two wires together again and string on one 3mm round metal bead, one metal rondelle, one bracelet bead, and one heishi. Continue to alternate bracelet beads and heishi for a total of two, three, or four sets. Then add the focal bead, followed by enough bracelet beads and heishi to match the first side, ending with a bracelet bead.

You can adjust the size of your bracelet by the number of beads added in the center on either side of the focal bead.

String on a rondelle metal bead directly after the last bracelet bead, and then string on a metal 3mm round. Now split the wires again and string one metal tube onto each.

The bring the wires together again and string on one 3mm round bead, one rondelle, one colored bracelet bead, and finally, the second crimp.

Step 3) Add second wire guard and attach to clasp:
Make sure all beads are strung evenly and without spaces, showing bare wire as little as is possible. Separate the two wires coming out of the second crimp and feed one up through one side of the second wire guard, across the top of the wire guard, and down through the second side.

Now slip the second ring of your magnet clasp over the piece of beading wire that you just fed through the second side of the wire guard and bring it up into wire guard so it rests around the u-shaped channel. Once the magnet clasp is attached, bring the end of the beading wire back down through the crimp and the colored bracelet bead. Pinch the two tube portions of the wire guard together so they are touching.

Keeping the crimp in position against the last colored bracelet bead, pull the tail of the wire running through the wire guard until the gap is eliminated between the crimp and the wire guard.

You still have a second piece of beading wire going up through the crimp. Bring this second piece of beading wire back down through the crimp, forming a loop. Then, reduce the size of the loop by pulling on the short piece of the second wire until there is just a small "nub" at the top of the crimp.

With your chain nose pliers, flatten the crimp so it makes secure contact to hold the wires. For the best appearance, there should be no space between the wire guard and the flattened crimp. Make sure you do not compress the tiny tubes of the wire guard as you flatten the crimp.

Step 4) Trim wires:
Carefully trim off the two short pieces as close as you can, one to the bottom of the flattened crimp and the other to the colored bracelet bead. Your tube bracelet is now complete.

Visit Anita's Beads and ask to see a demonstration at the counter if you need help, or join us for Bead Club which meets Monday and Thursday from 2:00-4:00. No appointment is necessary--just drop in!

Directions for Tube Bracelet

Your kit contains:
1 24-inch piece of .015 beading wire
2 crimp beads
2 metal wire guards (look like horse shoes) 
1 magnet clasp
4 3x2mm rondelle metal beads
4 3mm round metal beads
4 2x38mm metal tubes
6 metal flat heishi spacer beads
10 colored bracelet beads
1 focal bead

You will need the following tools:
Chain nose pliers
Cutters

Step 1) Attach clasp to wire guard with crimp:
Thread the beading wire through one tube of the wire guard from the bottom, and then down the second tube from the top. (Note: if you are unfamiliar with wire guards, they are horse-shoe shaped with a hollow tube portion at both ends connected by an open u-shaped channel between them.)

Move the wire guard to the center of the beading wire. Now slip one ring of your magnet clasp over one end of the beading wire and bring it up into wire guard so it rests around the u-shaped channel. Once the magnet clasp is attached, bring both ends of the beading wire through the crimp. Pinch the two tube portions of the wire guard together so they are touching, and slide the crimp up to meet them.

With your chain nose pliers, flatten the crimp so it makes secure contact to hold the wires. For the best appearance, there should be no space between the wire guard and the flattened crimp. Make sure you do not compress the tiny tubes of the wire guard as you flatten the crimp.


Step 2) String on beads:
Holding the two wires together, string one colored bracelet bead, then one metal rondelle, and then one 3mm round metal bead and slide them up to the crimp. Now split the wires and string one metal tube onto each one and slide them up to the 3mm round metal bead.

Hold the two wires together again and string on one 3mm round metal bead, one metal rondelle, one bracelet bead, and one heishi. Continue to alternate bracelet beads and heishi for a total of two, three, or four sets. Then add the focal bead, followed by enough bracelet beads and heishi to match the first side, ending with a bracelet bead.

You can adjust the size of your bracelet by the number of beads added in the center on either side of the focal bead.

String on a rondelle metal bead directly after the last bracelet bead, and then string on a metal 3mm round. Now split the wires again and string one metal tube onto each.

The bring the wires together again and string on one 3mm round bead, one rondelle, one colored bracelet bead, and finally, the second crimp.

Step 3) Add second wire guard and attach to clasp:
Make sure all beads are strung evenly and without spaces, showing bare wire as little as is possible. Separate the two wires coming out of the second crimp and feed one up through one side of the second wire guard, across the top of the wire guard, and down through the second side.

Now slip the second ring of your magnet clasp over the piece of beading wire that you just fed through the second side of the wire guard and bring it up into wire guard so it rests around the u-shaped channel. Once the magnet clasp is attached, bring the end of the beading wire back down through the crimp and the colored bracelet bead. Pinch the two tube portions of the wire guard together so they are touching.

Keeping the crimp in position against the last colored bracelet bead, pull the tail of the wire running through the wire guard until the gap is eliminated between the crimp and the wire guard.

You still have a second piece of beading wire going up through the crimp. Bring this second piece of beading wire back down through the crimp, forming a loop. Then, reduce the size of the loop by pulling on the short piece of the second wire until there is just a small "nub" at the top of the crimp.

With your chain nose pliers, flatten the crimp so it makes secure contact to hold the wires. For the best appearance, there should be no space between the wire guard and the flattened crimp. Make sure you do not compress the tiny tubes of the wire guard as you flatten the crimp.

Step 4) Trim wires:
Carefully trim off the two short pieces as close as you can, one to the bottom of the flattened crimp and the other to the colored bracelet bead. Your tube bracelet is now complete.

Visit Anita's Beads and ask to see a demonstration at the counter if you need help.

8-Cord Kumihimo Spiral Bracelet Instructions - Part 1.

I love the simplicity of the design of my latest kumihimo braided bracelet using size 8 Japanese seed beads. The spiral pattern is pleasing to the eye and the materials cost is low! To make the spiral pattern, choose two contrasting colors of size 8 seed beads. You can use either Japanese or Czech seed beads. My design utilizes matte black Miyuki (stock no. MI-8-401F) and lovely matte gold Toho's (stock no. TH-8-559F). The beads are strung on coordinating colors of S-Lon cord. I used black and Light Khaki. If you look at the close-up photo below, you will see that the cord shows ever-so-slightly, so matching the cord color to the bead is a good idea if you can manage it.

Each strand of cord will be strung with 50 beads, four strands of black, and four strands of gold, so it will take 200 beads of each of the two colors to make a bracelet length. This is approximate. You can string on more beads further into the project if you need to, or stop braiding before all beads are used.

You will need a Mini Kumihimo braiding disc, eight bobbins, and a button to make the closure. Sharp scissors, and "Bead Tip" hypo cement to glue your end knot will also be required. A short "Big-Eye" needle is nice to use to thread your beads onto the cord, but it is not a necessity. All of these supplies are stocked at Anita's Beads.

I start by cutting two 2-yard pieces of black S-Lon cord, and two 2-yard pieces of light khaki. Strands will be folded in half to give you a total of eight cords required for this type of Kumihimo braid. I will begin with adding my button by taking all four cords together and threading them through one hole of my button from the back (the button is slightly domed in shape, the high part of the dome is the top, and the back of the button is slightly "dished") and then through the second hole towards the back. I keep sliding the button until it rests at the center point of the four cords, at the fold.

Then I place the button top-side down into the center of my Mini Kumihimo disc. Supporting the button with my fingers, I slide each of the eight cords into slots before and after the four dots located at the North-East-South-West positions on the disc. To make the spiral design, I want to arrange the cords so one color runs vertical (North and South) and the other color runs horizontal (East and West).

Once the cords are secured into the slots with my button face down in the center, I flip the disc over and begin stringing on beads. Each of the four black cords get 50 black beads, and each of the four light khaki cords get 50 gold beads. After adding each group of 50, I slide them up close to the disc and wind the remaining cord onto a bobbin so the beads rest above the bobbin. The bobbins serve two purposes: they keep the beads from sliding off of the cord, and they keep the cords from becoming tangled as you work. You can always unwind the cord, remove the bobbin, and string on more beads if necessary.

When all your beads and bobbins are in place you are ready to start braiding. I hold the disc in my left hand and manipulate the cords with my right, turning the disc in a counter-clockwise direction as I work. I can use the fingers of my left had to create a little tension on the braid by grasping the button from the back. Some people prefer to use a weight.

I start out by braiding a short section without moving up beads. This will create an area of plain cord just behind the button where your loop will attach to secure the bracelet. I start by moving the cord in the Left South position UP to the first empty slot to the Left North, and then take the cord in the Right North position and move it DOWN to the first empty slot to the Right South. Then I turn the disc one-quarter of a turn counter-clockwise and repeat. You can tug on the bobbins to release more cord as needed as you go.

So the sequence is bottom Left UP, top Right DOWN, 1/4 counter-clockwise turn. At first it doesn't seem like you're doing much, but then the braid becomes established and you will see the spiral pattern beginning to form. Keep braiding without beads until you create a space of about 1/4 (.25) inch.

You will notice that as you braid, the position of the cords will move away from the dots. Gradually they will work around until, again, all eight cords will come into position at four compass points with one cord on either side of each dot. This is your check point. If the cords fail to line up, check your work for errors and work in reverse until you eliminate the error.

[Continue to Part 2.]

Instructions for Anita's Daily Bracelet

Your Daily Bracelet Bead Kit contains:

• Bracelet beads
• Dangle beads
• Seed beads or Crystal Bicones

Your Daily Bracelet Metal Kit contains:

• 24 gauge headpins
• 21 gauge half-hard round wire pieces
• 3mm and 5mm Bali-style heishi spacers (SP & GP metal kits have tiny bead caps)
• Lobster clasp w/Ring *or* Ball & Socket Clasp
• 6mm Soldered Jump Rings

You will need the following tools to complete your bracelet:

• Round-nose pliers
• Chain-nose pliers
• Wire cutters

STEPS 1-6: CREATE THE DANGLES

Step 1 - Assemble four dangles for each bracelet bead. Daily Bracelets will have between 7 and 10 bracelet beads (between 28 and 40 dangles) depending on a) the size of the bead in your particular design and b) the size of your wrist.  On each headpin add (in order) one seed bead or crystal bicone, one dangle bead, and one metal heishi spacer bead (or bead cap if working in SP or GP). Note: Refer to the photograph of your Daily Bracelet on Anita's Daily Bracelet Blog as you work. Click the photograph for an enlarged view.

Step 2 - Bend one assembled headpin to a 90-degree angle using chain-nose pliers. Pinch the headpin wire just above the metal heishi spacer bead (or bead cap if working in SP or GP) with the TIP of the chain-nose pliers and bend the remaining top section of the wire 90 degrees. The portion of the wire held in the tip of the pliers is the SPACE which will allow you to make three wire WRAPs (3 complete turns) to close the LOOP which will be make in Step 3. The straight piece remaining after the bend is the TAIL.

Step 3 - Turn a LOOP using the round-nose pliers. Position the wire near the tip of the round-nose pliers so a small LOOP will be made. (Make note of this position and use it for all of your dangles so the LOOPs will be of uniform size.) Pinch the wire TAIL just after the bend. With the round-nose pliers in a vertical position (viewed straight on the tips of the pliers will look like this: 8) bend the TAIL up and over the top and then down until it forms a partial Loop. When the TAIL touches the other wire and you cannot wrap it any further, slide the wire off of the top of the pliers and move it to the bottom. Now you can continue wrapping the TAIL around until it forms a complete LOOP.

Step 4 - Using your chain-nose pliers, grasp the LOOP across two wires for a secure hold. With your other hand bend the remaining TAIL around the space which remains between the LOOP and the metal heishi or bead cap. It should take approximately 3 WRAPS to fill the space.

Step 5 - Using your wire-cutters, clip off the excess wire TAIL that remains, cutting as close to the WRAPs as possible. If a small snag is left, you can push it close to the WRAP with the tips of your chain-nose pliers.

Step 6 - Repeat Steps 2 through 5 to complete the remaining dangles.

STEPS 7-10: FORM FIRST LOOP ON BRACELET WIRES

Step 7 - Using your chain-nose pliers, grasp one piece wire at a point one-third from the end and bend the wire in a 90-degree angle to form the shape of the letter L. Note: One of the wires in your kit has already been bent and looped as a sample.

Step 8 - Using your round-nose pliers, grasp the wire by the short section just at the bend. You will need to make a LOOP which is approximately 2mm in diameter (like your sample) so you will be grasping further back on you round-nose pliers in comparison to where you formed the LOOPs on your dangles. (A larger LOOP is required to give your dangles room to move around once the bracelet is assembled.) With the round-nose pliers again in the vertical position (8) bend the TAIL up and over the top and down until it forms a partial LOOP. When the TAIL touches the other wire, slide the wire off of the top of the pliers and move it to the bottom. Now you can continue wrapping the TAIL around until it forms a complete LOOP.

Step 9 - Repeat steps 7 and 8 until you have one wire for each of your bracelet beads. The number will vary depending on which bracelet you are making. See: Step 1.

STEPS 10-18: CREATE THE BRACELET

Step 10 - With your chain-nose pliers, open the LOOP of one piece of wire enough to slide on one dangle, then the ring of your lobster clasp, and then another dangle. Close the LOOP with your chain-nose pliers.

Step 11 - Using your chain-nose pliers, grasp the LOOP across two wires for a secure hold. With your other hand, grasp the TAIL and wrap it around one complete turn. Trim off the remainder of the TAIL close to the wrap with your wire-cutters. You should have what resembles an eye pin with a closed LOOP holding your clasp with a dangle on each side of the clasp.

Step 12 - Add a heishi spacer (or bead cap if working in SP or GP), followed by a bracelet bead, and then another heishi spacer (or bead cap) to the wire. Then bend the wire 90 degrees with your chain-nose pliers directly after the second heishi bead. There should be no space between the heishi and the bend in the wire because you will only be wrapping the TAIL once after forming another LOOP.

Step 13 - Using your round-nose pliers, grasp the wire just at the bend. You will make a second LOOP which is approximately 2mm in diameter (matching the size of your first LOOP). With the round-nose pliers in a vertical position (8) bend the TAIL up and over the top and down, forming a partial LOOP. When the TAIL touches the other wire, slide the wire off of the top of the round-nose pliers and move it to the bottom. Now you can continue wrapping the TAIL until it forms a complete LOOP.

Step 14 - With your chain-nose pliers, open the LOOP you just made enough to slide on one dangle, a soldered jump ring, and then another dangle. Close the LOOP with your chain-nose pliers.

Step 15 - Using your chain-nose pliers, grasp the LOOP across two wires for a secure hold. With your other hand, bend the remaining TAIL around to form one complete WRAP. Trim off the remainder of the TAIL close to the WRAP with your wire cutters. You now have the first bracelet UNIT with four dangles and a soldered jump ring to which you will attach another piece of wire.

Step 16 - With your chain-nose pliers, open the LOOP of another piece of wire. Add one dangle to the LOOP, then slide the LOOP onto the soldered jump ring attached to the previous bracelet UNIT. Add a second dangle and then close the LOOP with your chain-nose pliers.

Step 17 - Using your chain-nose pliers, grasp the LOOP across two wires for a secure hold. With your other hand, bend the remaining TAIL around to form one complete WRAP. Trim off the remainder of the TAIL close to the WRAP with your cutters. You should again have what resembles an eye pin with a closed loop and two dangles attached to the soldered jump ring at the end of your previous bracelet UNIT.

Step 18 - Repeat steps 12 through 17 until you come to the second LOOP of your last bead. Add a dangle, then the second half of your clasp, and then the last dangle before closing the LOOP.


TO KEEP IN MIND:

The most common mistake is to forget to add dangles before closing the loop.


I can make a bracelet in about 1.5 yours (one hour to create dangles and then 1/2 hour to assemble). If you have not had much experience working with wire, figure on 3-4 hours to complete.

This is an advanced project. Take frequent breaks if you feel the need.

Visit the shop during business hours with your wire and bead kit materials and I will gladly assist you if you get stuck. Bead Club meets Monday and Thursday afternoons from 2-4 and is a good opportunity to receive free instruction.

I also offer instruction to individuals by appointment. My fee is $35. per person for a 1.5 hour session. With my assistance you will complete your bracelet in one session. Telephone the shop at 603-522-6529 for more information or to schedule an appointment.

Bead Kits and Metal Kits (in sterling silver, gold-filled, silver plate, gold plate, antique brass and gunmetal) are available at Anita's Beads. Finished bracelets may also be purchased at the shop. See all the designs on Anita's Daily Bracelet Blog.

Macrame Bracelet Instructions

Kit Contains: 2 pieces cotton cord: 1 piece 72 inches (Tying cords); 1 pc. 30 inches (Center cords)

Size 6/0 Seed Beads: Pattern uses 52 beads. Extra beads have been provided.

One Focal Bead

Your cords have been tied into a loop for you. (This was done by folding the long and the short pieces in half, bringing both loops together, and tying them in a single knot.)

The two long cords are the Tying Cords. The two short cords are the Center Cords.

String 24 Seed Beads onto each of the long Tying Cords. You will use a total of 48 beads. Tie a small knot at the very end of each of the Tying Cords to keep the beads from falling off.

The basic pattern is two knots then two beads. The rule is always start and end with two knots.

Depending on how you tie the knots, your result will either be Flat or Spiral.

Flat is achieved by knotting with alternating Tying Cords and Spiral by knotting Tying Cords from one side only. Directions are given for both. Suggestion: Make one side Flat and the other Spiral for the popular asymmetrical look.

It is easier to tie even knots when you can achieve tension. Suggestions: Pin the loop to a macramé board (available separately) or piece of foam board, or cork board with a T-Pin. Use a safety pin to attach it to your jeans (hippy-style!) or pillow. Tape the loop to the table. Attach a cup-hook to a convenient surface. Suction cups with metal hooks work great on clean smooth surfaces.

Directions for Flat Knotting:

All of the knotting is done around the two Center Cords with the two Tying Cords. Arrange cords so the two Center Cords lie between the two Tying Cords (Right and Left). Begin knotting from the left using the Left Tying Cord. Form the Left Tying Cord into the shape of the capital letter “L” with the toe of the “L” lying across the top of the two Center Cords. Take the Right Tying Cord and pass it under the toe of the “L” (formed by the Left Tying Cord), behind the two Center Cords, and out through the space between the Center Cords and the Left Tying Cord. This forms the first knot. Tighten the knot by adjusting the two Tying Cords until it rests just under the loop.

The second knot is tied the same way only in reverse. This time begin knotting from the right using the Right Tying Cord. Form the Right Tying Cord into the shape of the letter “L” with the toe of the “L” lying across the top of the two Center Cords. Take the Left Tying cord and pass it under the toe of the “L” (formed by the Right Tying Cord), behind the two Center Cords, and out through the space between the Center Cords and the Right Tying Cord. This forms the second knot. Tighten the second knot against the first knot by adjusting the two Tying Cords.

Slide up one bead from each of the two Tying Cords until they rest under the first two knots. Tie two more knots identical to the first two being careful to tighten them snugly under the beads. Continue to alternate two beads with two knots until you have 12 beads on each side for a total of 24 (one half of the beads you strung on in the first step). Make sure you end with two knots.

Now string your Center Bead onto the two Center Cords and slide it up to the last knots. Bring the Tying Cords around either side of the Center Bead and use them to tie a knot starting with the Left Tying Cord. Tie a second knot beginning with the Right Tying Cord. Then slide up one bead on each side, and tie two more knots. Repeat until you have used the remaining 24 beads. End with two knots.

Directions for Spiral Knotting:

All of the knotting is done around the two Center Cords with the two Tying Cords. Arrange cords so the two Center Cords lie between the two Tying Cords (Right and Left). Begin knotting from the left using the Left Tying Cord. Form the Left Tying Cord into the shape of the capital letter “L” with the toe of the “L” lying across the top of the two Center Cords. Take the Right Tying Cord and pass it under the toe of the “L” (formed by the Left Tying Cord), behind the two Center Cords, and out through the space between the Center Cords and the Left Tying Cord. This forms the first knot. Tighten the knot by adjusting the two Tying Cords until it rests just under the loop.

The second knot is tied exactly the same way. Tighten the second knot against the first knot by adjusting the two Tying Cords.

Slide up one bead from each of the two Tying Cords until they rest under the first two knots. Tie two more knots identical to the first two being careful to tighten them snugly under the beads. Continue to alternate two beads with two knots until you have 12 beads on each side for a total of 24 (one half of the beads you strung on in the first step). Make sure you end with two knots.

Now string your Center Bead onto the two Center Cords and slide it up to the last knots. Bring the Tying Cords around either side of the Center Bead and use them to tie a knot starting with the Left Tying Cord. Tie a second knot exactly the same starting with the Left Tying Cord. Then slide up one bead on each side, and tie two more knots. Repeat until you have used the remaining 24 beads. End with two knots.

Finishing the Bracelet:

Bring all of the cords together into one knot which rests just after your last macramé knot. Trim all cords even (you should have about 6 inches of cord remaining) and spilt into two groups of two. Tie each group into a knot which rests about 4 inches from the end of the bracelet. Slip a bead onto each of the four strings remaining and anchor them by tying a small knot in each cord up near the bead. Trim four cords close to the knot.

Traditionally friendship bracelets are exchanged between friends, tied on by the giver, and worn until they fall off.